A rustic cotton trenchcoat in a panama shade, subtly sparkling with rhinestones exquisitely embroidered to create a herbarium design, exemplified Brunello Cucinelli’s luxurious grand tour for spring, imagining a journey through the Mediterranean coast and on to the desert dunes.
The fluid suits with stripes shimmering with threads of Lurex in a blue palette and sailor T-shirts were evocative of the Riviera, while the cropped, belted jacket and long cotton organza skirt with a vaguely animalier print in chocolate brown and ivory would be appropriate for any tea in the desert.
Perhaps reminiscent of the blistering sun, there were touches of red — although always in a dusty palette that is a signature of the brand — seen in the wraparound dress.
Cucinelli gave his personal touch to the safari jacket in suede, worn over a linen and silk dress with an intricate mesh of tiny knots and sequins.
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Nothing looked tight or constricting, pants and skirts were extra long, roomy and fluid. It was reductive to call the knits with that name as they were a marvel of labor. Cue the macramé silk and linen cardigan, woven by hand in a geometric openwork pattern, that took 70 hours to be completed.
The collection was cohesive and a strong statement from a brand that built its success on manual craftsmanship and precious fabrics. As Brunello Cucinelli himself has said before, there is nothing quiet about this luxury — it screams exclusivity.