Laura and Deanna Fanning said they felt old when developing the spring 2025 collection, where they had to explain what a stamp is to the interns when developing a print for its latest Levi’s collaboration, which also featured a vintage motorcycle suit-inspired denim look.
Moving in transit and transience was a key theme of the collection. The sister duo referenced the heydays of aviation — think Pan Am at its prime — when flying was an exclusive, high-brow event. Retro flight suits and pilot uniforms were interpreted through a Y2K, Harajuku girl lens, with wired up-in-the-air scarves adding a sense of urgency amid constant traveling, a feeling fellow show-goers know all too well.
Four women were studied during the collection development, they said. In addition to the flight attendant with a “Fifth Element” hairdo, there was a warrior, whose runway representation came in the final three jockey-influenced looks.
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Those ephemeral, sheer dresses were their take on the wanderer, who navigates the space she is expected and not expected to be in in society. Then came the stamps, a collection of memories from a woman charging through the world to places real and imagined.